You can find additional help identifying common pest problems by using the online diagnostic tools What insect is this? For detailed management strategies for specific insects and diseases see Pest management for the home strawberry patch. To produce healthy plants, avoid situations that favor the development of diseases or contribute to insect infestations.
There are many different insect pests of strawberries. Some of these pests will be present every year, and some you will never see. The most common insect pests of strawberries in Minnesota are tarnished plant bugs, strawberry bud weevils, slugs and flower thrips.
Rodents and birds may cause more trouble in home strawberry plantings than insects. Large holes in ripe fruit are a good sign that these creatures are enjoying your strawberries. Pick fruit as soon as it is ripe to prevent damage. Frost during bloom can cause strawberries to be deformed and undersized as it ripens. Damaged fruit is still edible. Frost damage is easily mistaken for tarnished plant bug TPB damage. Both cause puckering and concentrations of seeds on parts of the berries, as the damaged part grows more slowly than the rest of the berry.
Strawberries are susceptible to fruit rots and leaf diseases. Fungi causing fruit rots infect the flowers and fruit as early as bloom time.
Leaf diseases often have little effect on plant growth. Gray mold, leaf blight, leaf scorch and leaf spot are caused by different fungi, but are managed mostly in the same way. Choose sites with full sun, good soil drainage and air circulation. Fungi require long periods of continuous wetness to infect plants. Any practice that promotes quick drying of leaves and fruit will reduce disease.
Gray mold Botrytis cinerea is the most common fruit rot disease of strawberries in Minnesota. The disease is most prevalent when there is prolonged cool, wet weather during flowering.
Honeoye is the only variety recommended in Minnesota that has shown partial resistance to gray mold. Fungicides may be needed to protect fruit from gray mold fruit rot in years where rainy wet weather persists while plants are in bloom. In this case, fungicides should be applied during blossom to prevent fruit rot.
Read and follow all label instructions. If the season is one characterized by prolonged periods of wet or humid weather, continue spraying at the interval described on the fungicide label until petal drop.
If possible watch the weather and spray before rain is predicted. Fungicides with copper or Captan as active ingredients will reduce gray mold fruit rot in strawberry when applied properly. Fungicide sprays applied to green fruit and during fruit harvest do little to reduce disease and are not recommended. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using.
Remember, the label is the law. Be sure that the plant you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use. Also be sure to observe the number of days between pesticide application and when you can harvest your crop. See above for how to manage this disease. This disease is a complex problem involving several different pathogens Rhizoctonia fragariae, Pythium spp. It is common in older strawberry patches or patches stressed by poor growing conditions like soil compaction or poor drainage.
Plants infected with BRR decline overtime, producing significantly lower yields than uninfected plants. The first symptoms of BRR are often missed. Infected plants have poor growth and produce fewer and smaller fruit.
As the disease becomes more severe, plants are clearly stunted. Plants displaying the above symptoms should be carefully dug up and washed, keeping intact as much of the root system as possible. A healthy plant will have young roots that are creamy white with multiple fine root hairs and older roots will have a dark brown to black woody outside layer but a white interior.
Leather rot occurs sporadically in Minnesota. The disease infects flowers and fruit at all stages. Infected strawberries have a distinctively unpleasant odor and a strong, bitter taste.
Infection of a few ripe berries that are processed into jam can ruin the whole jar with this off-taste. The leather rot fungus Phytophthora cactorum is a water mold oomycete. Water molds thrive in wet conditions and produce three types of spores. Anthracnose fruit rot is a fungal disease that causes fruit rot and flower blight in warm wet weather. The anthracnose fruit rot fungus, Colletotrichum acutatum rarely C.
Angular leaf spot ALS is caused by a bacterium Xanthomonas fragariae that primarily infects leaves. This disease is not a common problem today. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that infects leaves and occasionally fruit. Powdery mildew thrives under conditions of low light intensity and warm humid weather.
As a result powdery mildew is common in greenhouse-grown plants but occurs only occasionally in gardens. The powdery mildew fungus Podosphaera aphanis is most commonly introduced into a garden on contaminated transplants but can be present on wild strawberries as well. These fruit symptoms are similar to symptoms caused by thrips.
Use a hand lens to look for white fungal growth around the seeds, which is characteristic of powdery mildew. Bronzing on the underside of calyx tissue would indicate feeding by thrips.
Some day-neutral varieties are susceptible to fruit infection in fall even though leaves may appear healthy. Fungicide sprays may be necessary to protect plants after summer renovation if powdery mildew has been identified in the patch before renovation. Several fungicides are available to control powdery mildew.
Choose products with an active ingredient of myclobutanil, sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, or horticultural oil. Apply products according to the label instructions. Repeated applications will be necessary as long as conditions favorable for disease continue.
Do not use sulfur on fruit intended for canning. Emily E. Hoover, Extension horticulturalist, Emily S. All rights reserved. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer.
Home Yard and garden Find plants Fruit Growing strawberries in the home garden. Quick facts Strawberries need full sun to produce maximum fruit. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart.
Strawberries are self-fertile, but require bees for pollination. Remove some of the runners throughout the season or your strawberry plants will take over your yard. After removing flowers for a few weeks after planting, you can pick fruit later that summer. One June-bearing plant can produce up to new daughter plants in one season.
Follow this calendar to keep strawberries healthy and productive What to do When to do it Rake straw away as plants start to grow, leaving a little straw to protect them April Plant dormant transplants April, May Plant potted transplants May, June Pinch flower buds off transplants for a few weeks May Thin June-bearing plants within two weeks after harvest July Apply compost to day neutral plants if needed July, August Remove runners from June-bearing plants as needed July through October Cover plants with straw mulch if overwintering November.
Choosing strawberry plants Many strawberry varieties are available and can be grown with ease in home gardens. Open all Close all. Strawberries recommended for northern gardens These varieties were chosen mainly for flavor and, when mulched, they are winter hardy in USDA Zone 4. Variety Type Hardiness zone 4 to zone 3 Description Annapolis June-bearing Good to poor Vigorous plants produce medium-large fruit with mild, sweet flavor.
Produces many runners. Earliglow June-bearing Fair to poor Firm, glossy fruit with classic strawberry flavor. Some disease resistance. Great variety for beginners. Jewel June-bearing Good to poor Firm, glossy fruit with excellent flavor. Tolerates molds and rots. Heavy producer. Honeoye June-bearing Excellent to very good Very productive. Aromatic, large, glossy, crimson berries with excellent flavor.
Disease resistant and easy to grow. Cavendish June-bearing Excellent to very good Ripens over a long season.
Produces large berries with very good flavor. Prolific runners. Ogallala Ever-bearing Excellent to very good Vigorous plants produce soft, deep red, rich-flavored berries. Drought tolerant.
Seascape Day neutral Very good to poor Productive from early summer through fall. Bright red berries inside and out. Disease resistant. Great for containers and garden beds. Albion Day neutral Fair to poor Medium, firm berries have excellent flavor. Produces consistently from June until frost. Great for containers or in the garden. Grows well in part shade. Does not produce runners, so plants remain small. Planting and caring for young plants. Buying plants. Choosing a site, plant spacing and depth Site selection By choosing the right site to grow strawberries, you can lower disease and insect pest pressure.
They have tiny little berries and have spread all over. I've tried pulling out those runners but can't get them all. I'm afraid they will choke out my real plants. How do I rid my garden of these wild ones? This is no easy task. Vinegar is cited but it may only slow ttop growth—and may affect you good berries too. Hand removal is by hand, and this is best done when soon after a rain or when the ground is wet. Read an article that suggested strawberries as a good candidate but your spacing recommendations seem to say no.
Please clarify. Raised beds are great for strawberries. June-bearing strawberries still need to be planted about 18 inches apart so the crown — the growth point where roots and shoots join — is level with the soil surface.
The first year, you should pinch off any flowers so the plants will develop to their full potential. The second year you can start harvesting berries. The runners — long stems that run off the central plant and create more strawberry plants — need to be trimmed when you see them develop.
Or, they drain nutrients from the main plant plus your bed will become a jumble of crowded plants, none of them doing very well.
The plants have spread to completely cover a plot about 9' x 3-to-4' and I am getting less than a hanful every couple of days. Otherwise, there are many reasons for smaller fruit: 1. Freezes or cold snaps and winter injury, 2. Poor pollination due to rainy, windy weather or lack of pollinators, 3. Too much heat; strawberries like temperate climates and will be stressed in heat, 4. Strawberries must be watered adequately but not over-watered. Soil must drain well with no standing water.
Too much nitrogen in your fertilizer would lead to lush greenergy but small fruit 6. Strawberries need the right spacing to put out those runners. Improper planting at the start. The crown of the strawberry must be at soil level not to high or low.
Full sun at least 8 hours per day , Many of these factors are common to all fruiting plants. This prevents them from getting too moist then waterlogged and rotten from the moisture in the soil after rain. Plus, it keeps the bugs from getting to the fruit too easily.
The answer to an older question here also says "Yes, straw is commonly used around strawberries as mulch. The exact origin of the common name is uncertain.
According to etymologists , the prevailing theory is that the straw may reference the tiny chaff-like external seeds which cover the fruit. Other sources suggest its name stems from the fact that English youth picked wild strawberries and sold them impaled on grass straws to the public.
Years ago my parents grew a strawberry by the name of Sunrise. I lost all of them one year and have not been able to find that variety of plants to replace them with.
I have found a new berry called Sweet Sunrise but not the old variety. Have any idea where I might find those plants. See references:. My strawberries are in their second year.
The plants are healthy with huge leaves but the fruit was small and not as plentiful as I was expecting. What do I do to get a bigger crop next year? I love strawberries, when I lived in CA I used to go to California strawberries dot com all the time for the best recipes ever!
I am setting up my garden to do mostly strawberries. Thanks for the amazing information. I don't do any of the 'special' things to grow strawberries. My plants are in big planters, they have rooted, flowered, fruited, made runners and been perfectly happy for nearly three years now. I bring them in to the plant room during the coldest part of the winter then back out on the south wall of the house to do it all over again. I have runners to plant or give away, lots of fruit we eat straight off the plant and no worries about what to do when.
I tend to do this will all my plants and it works. Too much fuss kill everything. Hello there.. I found this Wonderful article this morning! And the link that says, 'How to make Strawberry Preserves' is broken! When I go there, it says Page not found..
I'll be checking back! Hello - In response to your complaint, go to the top of the page and type in Strawberry Preserves. It'll take you to the video and have a working link for the recipe. Have a blessed day! Thank you to Jeanette for taking the time to provide these helpful instructions!
We have also updated the broken link for the Strawberry Preserves Video. Everything I have read says after plants are 3 years old they will stop producing In cooler climates, plant everbearing berries in the spring to yield a fall crop. You can find strawberry plants for sale in garden centers, or look online for a larger selection of cultivars.
The best time to grow strawberries depends on the cultivar. Some do better when planted in early spring, others in summer or fall. If you live in a temperate climate, your planting date will fall between August and October. Appropriate cultivars for summer planting include June-bearing 'Douglas,' 'Chandler' and 'Oso Grande,' as well as everbearing 'Selva' and 'Irvine. No matter when you decide to plant your berries, certain general rules apply across the board.
You should prepare well-drained, slightly acidic soil for your strawberry plants and set them 12 inches apart and at a depth that allows crown leaves to be just above the soil.
At least eight hours a day of direct sunlight is recommended for best fruiting, but the plants will also fruit in light shade as long as the temperature stays between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Watering is critical.
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